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King of details and layering Takahiro Miyashita of former number (n)ine fame delivers another home run for the AW12 collection of his namesake brand, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloIst. (You can just call it “The Soloist” if you want — sheesh.)
Number (N)ine fall 2009 “A Closed Feeling”
I’ve mentioned this before, but other blog has been my favorite of mine for quite some time. He recently did an amazing write-up on this collection, which is shared below.
A Closed Feeling was the final “hurrah” from Takahiro Miyashita before he put an end to the Number (N)ine label to later begin The Soloist. Many say this was not only Miyashita’s most successful collection but also his most adventurous. I would personally go further and say it is one of the most important menswear collections of this generation, perhaps of all time. Rarely do I see the sheer creativity that this collection exudes to every last exacting detail of the show. Miyashita was a man who constantly reinvented himself for each show. Browsing through his œuvre, each Number (N)ine collection feels very different from one another (but undeniably N(N), nevertheless.) In A Closed Feeling he not only continued this tradition, but he executed this new aesthetic so perfectly, it was as if he had been doing it his entire career.
But what are we looking at? Who knows. Find me another collection that looks remotely close to this masterpiece — this is part of the genius. Miyashita pulled from such a historically rich sartorial vocabulary for this collection, the clothing and style can’t be attributed to any one trend or period. My best approximation of these men is to think of them as nomads through time, trudging their way through centuries of fashion, picking up cues from all around the world (Americana, Victorian, Romantic, Middle-Eastern) but all the while completely ignoring gender stereotypes (skirts, leggings). Their journey didn’t seem to go pleasantly — time has take its toll on the clothing and men themselves. Their bodies are slumped with poor posture, their hats and sweaters cut and shredded, buttons fraying, fabric and thread splayed along the body. Their jeweled masks hide their faces, creating a sense of humble anonymity. They walk somberly into the middle of the runway, step around in a tight circle, and trod off.
The collection has never ceased to amaze me since I first saw it when it debuted. It solidifies Miyashita’s position in fashion history, in my humble opinion. Students and designers alike should be examining this collection, trying to uncover what exactly led to the development of such a unique and exquisitely executed season. I’ve come to accept that I could fit very little of it in with my personal wardrobe. There is a single jacket and maybe some more basic pieces that would work but overall, I’ve come to respect this collection from afar. I encourage you to follow the image links and view in high resolution. The larger images will only reveal more of the fantastic details embedded within these garments.
Rarely do artists quit on a good note. In Miyashita’s case, he left on his best.
